Rain barrel

We have wanted a rain barrel for quite some time.  Recently, we ran across a blue industrial barrel from a friend who intended to make a rain barrel but had abandoned those plans.  She gave it to us for free.  After about $30 in parts we have a functioning barrel that will provide us with 55 gallons of free rainwater. Follow along for a run through of the process I used to create our barrel.

We started with a 55 gallon blue industrial barrel.  The barrel had a closed top with two screw in ports.  To begin, I purchased a 4" round plastic grate from the outdoor plumbing area at Lowes for $2.76.  I cut out one of the screw in ports and placed the grate in it's place. A hole saw or jig saw can be used for this.  This grate will keep filter out large items such as leaves and sticks that work their way through the guttering.

The next step was to install the spigot.  I purchased a 3/4" hose bibb ($5.56) along with a 3/4" washer ($1.96) and some gutter sealant ($4.28).  I used a hole saw to drill the appropriate sized hole for the bibb to screw into.  The plastic on the barrel is very thick and once the hole was drilled, it was pretty easy to thread the bibb into the plastic. I gooped up the threads and washer with gutter seal and screwed it into place.

Next, I needed to come up with an overflow tube.  I used a barbed fitting for hose with a 5/8" ID.  The fitting is brass and has 3/4" threads on one end and 5/8" barbed on the other.  I screwed this into the upper portion of the barrel in the same manner as the spigot. I used 5/8" clear vinyl tubing for the hose.  5 feet of it cost me $2.35.

Overflow fitting with tubing

Landscape fabric staple holding tubing in place

 Since the water is under no pressure, it is sufficient to just push the tubing over the barbed end of the fitting.  No clamp is necessary.  I positioned the tubing where I wanted it on the ground and used some landscaping fabric staples to  hold it in place.  When the barrel reaches capacity, the water will flow from the overflow tube and away from the foundation of the garage.







The final step in the process was cutting the existing downspout to length and adding a flexible extension onto the end.  I also used a regular aluminum elbow in order to get the downspout to sit directly over the grate on the barrel.  Now as the rain flows from the roof, it will be directed right into the barrel.  The spigot I selected is threaded to accept a garden hose.  We intend to connect a hose to our barrel for purposes of watering our vegetable garden.  Please remember that rainwater captured from a roof is not good for drinking.  Not pictured here is the pantyhose material that is stretched over the grate.  This will prevent mosquitoes from breeding in the water.  For winter I will empty the barrel of water and store it in the garage.  I saved the cut off section of downspout and I will attach it to the flex fitting so that any winter snow can melt and run away from the foundation.

Kitchen staircase progress

I jump around from project to project, as you might be able to see.  Ask my wife, she'll agree.

The kitchen staircase is showing some progress.  I've removed 1/4" plywood "risers" that covered up the original white paint.  I have begun stripping the maroon floor paint from the treads and sanding off the old dark (almost opaque black) stain/varnish, down to the original wood.  I have put down a test area of stain.  I had some Minwax dark walnut on hand so I rubbed a small area.  I let that dry for 24 hours then put one coat of oil based poly on top.  I wanted to see how dark it would be with that combo.  In the picture below you can see the small stain swatch on the top tread, front right corner.

Bare wood treads and stain test patch

My goal is for all of the stairs to have the same stained treads and white risers.  It's fun uncovering the old coverings.  I didn't get a picture, but when I was pulling off the quarter round molding under the tread lip, I found some vinyl woodgrain flooring that someone in the past applied to the stair RISERS.  Pretty 70's I think.  Here is another shot of the the stairs as they stand now.

Lastly, here is my proof that the stair risers were painted white from inception.

In this pic, the white is the original white paint.  Above it is a small area of bare, unfinished wood where quarter round was mounted under the tread nose.  I've pulled the moulding and it's being stripped via chemicals in the garage.  It was too small to use the sander.

I'll post again soon with more progress on these projects.

Discovering old wood flooring

I've always wondered what was underneath the 1/4" painted plywood on the attic landing.  I ripped it up a few weeks ago and discovered original hardwood tounge and groove flooring.  The wood appears to be of less quality than the rest of the house, probably since this was on the attic staircase.  It was pretty dirty and had the original stain on it.  Here is a shot of it after doing some sanding.

The floor appears to be oak and the nosing (painted in picture still) appears to be fir or pine.  I used a random orbit sander and 60 grit paper to sand the floor and nosing to bare wood.  I set all old nails and drove some new nails.  After everything was cleaned, I proceeded to lay down my coats of poly.  I used Varethane semigloss oil based poly.  It gives the wood an amber finish.  Here is a shot of half of the floor bare and half with one coat of poly. All of the stairs in the house had been painted with a porch and floor paint in a maroon color. Another ongoing project of mine is taking the main staircase back to the wood treads and white risers (also original).  Lucky for me, the prior owners decided to lay plywood over this floor and painted it.

I love the rustic look of the floor and can only hope that this will last another century.  Our house is built as a colonial revival/arts and crafts style. Most of the woodwork is painted (as it was since it's inception) but the floors are all oak strip.  I really enjoy bringing back original features to the house.